February 16, 2008

DIY Dining: It Never Works, Seriously.

Joanna Kates gives a truly biting review of Stonegrill (51A Winchester Street) in today's Globe and Mail.

Stonegrill's shtick is that you order an expensive cut of meat and cook it on a hot stone at your table. But as Kates rightly explains, "I don't want to cook my venison. At $34, I want them to do it. But they want me to do it." She deems the experience "a dog of a concept."

Well I could have told you that.

Back in Whitby, I spent my last three years of high school working as a busgirl at a restaurant called Hot Rocks. When it opened in the early 90's, they had a similar concept: grill shrimp, chicken or beef on a rock that was heated in a wood oven. But people didn't come for the stone cooking, they came for the to-die-for wood-oven pizza and the equally competent mains. It became one of the most popular restaurants in town.

My family were regulars at Hot Rocks before I started working there. We used to to sit at the bar which surrounded the pizza oven and chat with the chefs and waitresses. When I turned 16 and started looking for an after-school job, they offered me a position as a busgirl/hostess. It was an awesome job: I actually made more money on tip-outs from the waitresses some nights than I did serving at some of the shittier restaurants I worked at in university.

During the time I was a busgirl, Hot Rocks was struggling to phase out its namesake rocks. Nobody ever ordered them; the stones were gathering dust behind the oven. But how do you get rid of the hot rocks when it's the restaurant's damned name? I saw the menu go through multiple redesigns that gradually decreased the prominence of stone grilling until the owner bit the bullet and took them off the menu all together. Then they started focusing on a killer repertoire of daily specials that took the restaurant to a whole other level of quality and sophistication. I haven't been back in years, but the business looks healthy.

As for Stonegrill, their steak-grilling days are numbered. Kates writes, "It seems that not too many other diners want to cook their own dinner, either. On neither of my visits to Stonegrill are there more than four tables occupied." That's the problem with being a franchise, I guess: Stonegrill doesn't have the advantage that Hot Rocks did of simply scrapping the gimmick and offering their patrons a quality dining experience.

Posted by Karen

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Comments: 7 so far

February 18, 2008 12:28 AM

sprocket! said:

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Funnily enough, I went to the Stonegrill in downtown Vancouver the same night you posted this article, and my thoughts pretty much echo those of the Globe and Mail's review. It's pretty unlikely I'd return again, even with the 2-for-1 up to 54 dollars off coupon I went there with. [1]


[1] I'm a classy date, what can I say?

February 18, 2008 1:05 PM

How did you get such a coupon? It sounds like the only way the experience would be worthwhile! Was it just as empty as when you were there?

February 18, 2008 3:26 PM

sprocket! said:

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I'd pilfered it from my sister's Entertainment coupon book (see: http://www.entertainment.com/discount/home.shtml). They appear to have them for Toronto, though I imagine it's up to the local Stonegrill to decide to participate.

February 19, 2008 12:44 AM

You are a classy guy who takes dates out with coupons he stole from his sister!

March 11, 2008 9:18 PM

Frank said:

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Well unfortunately for hot rocks, our restaurant has strength in it's management. If you read Joanne Kate's column correctly, there was nothing negative about the review, just that she, being a decrepit, ancient food writer, didn't want to attempt a new dining experience. She would rather pay an inflated amount at a Mark Mckwen resto, where the staff get paid ten bucks an hour to cook her meal, while he drives around in a $150,000 benz. She actually said the kitchen had strength. Also, we remember that she came into our restaurant on a Tuesday and Wednesday of the coldest week in February. To be honest with you, our restaurant, as are most, is busy from Thursday through Sunday. Also, we market our resto throughout the community, so we get the community support more than anything. By the way, if you trust what Ms Kates has to write about, why don't you see what she and Amy Pataki wrote about on the same Saturday (March 1, 2008) regarding the same resto. Ms Kates wrote a glowing review about Brad Moore's new resto while Amy Pataki pretty much felt like poking her eye out with a fork. Experience speaks louder than words on a paper or website. Try it for yourself. And, you will have to make a reservation as we are booked for the next two weeks. Hope to see you soon...

March 12, 2008 3:41 PM

Frank,

For a restaurant that is booked up for the next week, it sure was easy to make a reservation for this Friday at 8:00 p.m. Unfortunately, I'll probably have to cancel.

As for Joanna Kates being "a decrepit, ancient food writer," she has decades of experience and a good reputation for calling out restaurants on their gimmicky attempts to seem cutting-edge and turn a profit. I mean, considering biases here, whose word am I going to take: a veteran food reviewer, or the guy who runs the restaurant? It's basic sense.

Besides, I can get a nice cut of meat at the St. Jamestown deli across the street on Parliament and cook it in my house for, like, $15.

August 24, 2008 2:35 AM

Jason Fairweather said:

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If Frank is the partner/owner/bartender, I have to tell you that you should not work the bar. Strength in your management???? GET REAL. You are a minor player, playing with your partners money, and playing pretty poorly, taking them to the cleaners. At the bar, you don't have the organization skills, the memory of drinks, or as you stumble around with each order, even the knowledge of where glasses, ice, vodka etc are. Someone PLEASE videotape this guy and replay it for him so he will never work the bar again. 15 minutes for 3 drinks? And nevermind the servers waiting for their orders??? Frank kind of reminded me of my loser cousin Sal who had done way too much weed in his day, and the neurons no longer connected. Nevermind that if Frank is the same one and only, he is also the laziest restaurateur in the city, sitting at the bar and complaining to all who will listen how very tired he is. And the restaurant is only open dinner. No lunch. So poor Frank is tired. But maybe his raison d'etre is actually in chasing down critiques of the restaurant and slamming the critics. Management at Stonegrill sucks, is barely visible, and is desperately in demand. Get rid of Frank the too-tired-to-work partner, and things MAY get better there. Until then Frank....you continue to hammer away at anyone who tells the truth about your gimmicky little place. And go smoke up someplace. But in the meantime, I guarantee you won't be greeting and entertaining your customers. You're way too 'tired' for that. Poor Frank.

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