DIY Dining: It Never Works, Seriously.

Joanna Kates gives a truly biting review of Stonegrill (51A Winchester Street) in today's Globe and Mail.
Stonegrill's shtick is that you order an expensive cut of meat and cook it on a hot stone at your table. But as Kates rightly explains, "I don't want to cook my venison. At $34, I want them to do it. But they want me to do it." She deems the experience "a dog of a concept."
Well I could have told you that.
Back in Whitby, I spent my last three years of high school working as a busgirl at a restaurant called Hot Rocks. When it opened in the early 90's, they had a similar concept: grill shrimp, chicken or beef on a rock that was heated in a wood oven. But people didn't come for the stone cooking, they came for the to-die-for wood-oven pizza and the equally competent mains. It became one of the most popular restaurants in town.
My family were regulars at Hot Rocks before I started working there. We used to to sit at the bar which surrounded the pizza oven and chat with the chefs and waitresses. When I turned 16 and started looking for an after-school job, they offered me a position as a busgirl/hostess. It was an awesome job: I actually made more money on tip-outs from the waitresses some nights than I did serving at some of the shittier restaurants I worked at in university.
During the time I was a busgirl, Hot Rocks was struggling to phase out its namesake rocks. Nobody ever ordered them; the stones were gathering dust behind the oven. But how do you get rid of the hot rocks when it's the restaurant's damned name? I saw the menu go through multiple redesigns that gradually decreased the prominence of stone grilling until the owner bit the bullet and took them off the menu all together. Then they started focusing on a killer repertoire of daily specials that took the restaurant to a whole other level of quality and sophistication. I haven't been back in years, but the business looks healthy.
As for Stonegrill, their steak-grilling days are numbered. Kates writes, "It seems that not too many other diners want to cook their own dinner, either. On neither of my visits to Stonegrill are there more than four tables occupied." That's the problem with being a franchise, I guess: Stonegrill doesn't have the advantage that Hot Rocks did of simply scrapping the gimmick and offering their patrons a quality dining experience.
February 18, 2008 12:28 AM
sprocket! said:
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Funnily enough, I went to the Stonegrill in downtown Vancouver the same night you posted this article, and my thoughts pretty much echo those of the Globe and Mail's review. It's pretty unlikely I'd return again, even with the 2-for-1 up to 54 dollars off coupon I went there with. [1]
[1] I'm a classy date, what can I say?